Legacy of the Deep

07-20-2024

BY LUCIUS CZERLU PHOTOGRAPH BY ROLEX

In the early 1950s, Hans Wilsdorf, the visionary founder of Rolex, found himself wrestling with an idea that refused to be ignored. He had already revolutionized the world of horology with the creation of the Oyster, the world’s first waterproof wristwatch. But Wilsdorf was not a man content with resting on his success. He was a man driven by an insatiable curiosity, a desire to push the boundaries of what was possible. And now, his thoughts turned to a challenge that few had dared to undertake: creating a wristwatch that could conquer the deepest, most unforgiving parts of the ocean.

The ocean, vast and mysterious, had long been a place of fascination and fear. It was a world where few had ventured, and even fewer had returned to tell the tale. But as technology advanced, so too did the human desire to explore these uncharted depths. Divers and explorers were beginning to push further and deeper, and they needed tools that could withstand the crushing pressures of the deep sea. Wilsdorf saw this need and recognized an opportunity—a chance to create something truly extraordinary.

In 1953, with this vision firmly in mind, Wilsdorf gathered a team of the most skilled engineers and watchmakers at Rolex. Together, they embarked on an ambitious mission: to design a watch that could not only survive the depths of the ocean but thrive in it. The challenges they faced were immense. How could they create a case that would resist the extreme pressures found hundreds of meters below the surface? How could they ensure that the watch’s movement would remain unaffected by the harsh conditions of the ocean? And perhaps most importantly, how could they design a watch that was as tasteful and reliable as any other Rolex?

Months of relentless experimentation followed. Prototypes were created, tested, and then discarded as the team sought to perfect their design. Every aspect of the watch was scrutinized, from the materials used in the case to the mechanics of the movement. Wilsdorf, ever the perfectionist, was involved in every step of the process, pushing his team to innovate, to think beyond the conventional, and to never settle for anything less than excellence.

Finally, after countless trials and sleepless nights, the Rolex Submariner was born in 1954. It was the first wristwatch to achieve water resistance to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet), a groundbreaking achievement that immediately set a new standard in the world of diving watches. But the Submariner was more than just a tool—it was a promise. A promise that no matter how deep a diver ventured into the ocean, this watch would keep perfect time, unaffected by the pressures that would crush lesser timepieces.

The Submariner quickly captured the attention of the world’s most daring adventurers. Among its earliest adopters were members of the British Royal Navy, who needed a reliable watch for their underwater missions, and Jacques Cousteau, the legendary oceanographer, who wore the Submariner on his groundbreaking expeditions. The watch’s robust construction, complete with a rotating bezel to measure dive time and a highly legible dial, made it an indispensable companion for those who pushed the boundaries of human exploration.

As the Submariner’s reputation grew, so did its legend. By the 1970s, Rolex had improved the Submariner’s water resistance to 200 meters, and later to 300 meters, reflecting the brand’s relentless pursuit of perfection. Yet despite these advancements, the watch’s design remained true to its origins—its Oyster case, unidirectional bezel, and luminescent hour markers becoming iconic symbols of durability and style.

In 1984, Rolex introduced a subtle yet impactful evolution of the original: the Submariner Date. This addition of a date complication made the Submariner even more versatile, allowing it to transition seamlessly from the depths of the ocean to the sophistication of the boardroom. The Submariner had become more than just a diving watch—it was a timeless design, a masterpiece of form and function that proved true innovation lies not in reinvention, but in perfecting the details.

Today, the Rolex Submariner stands as a testament to Hans Wilsdorf’s vision. What began as a quest to create the ultimate diving watch has evolved into a symbol of luxury, adventure, and impeccable craftsmanship. The Submariner is more than just a watch; it is a piece of history, worn on the wrists of explorers, celebrities, and watch enthusiasts around the world. Whether crafted from Oystersteel, yellow gold, or white gold, and available in a variety of dial and bezel options, each Submariner is as unique as its owner.

Over six decades after its debut, the Rolex Submariner remains as coveted and relevant as ever. It may have started as a tool for divers, but today, it is a timeless statement of elegance and resilience. While technology has advanced and the world has changed, the Submariner’s legacy remains untouched, a reminder that true style is not about keeping up with the times—it’s about creating something that transcends them. The Submariner is more than a watch; it’s a legend that will continue to inspire for generations to come.